Caring for euphyllia corals

[Deepocean]

I've found that my Hammers and Frogspawn tend to do exceptionally well in my tank. Unfortunately, I've had limited success with torches. I've tried placing Hammers in various locations, from the sandbed to the top of the tank, and I've noticed that they thrive when I give them the right conditions. I have a cluster of Hammers in different colors, about 8 inches from the water surface, that are doing great with moderate flow.

One of my Hammers wasn't looking happy, so I moved it to the sandbed and it's now thriving. I replaced it with one from the middle of the tank that wasn't doing its best, and it perked up after being moved to the top.

I know some people have had issues with wall Hammers and Frogspawn, but I've found the branching varieties to be easier to care for. However, six out of seven of my Hammers are the wall variety, and they're doing great. The Aussie pieces seem to do better in my experience.

[Flynoir]

I've got a branching hammer on the left, and it's actually grown since I moved it from the nano. I'm thinking of adding more colors to create a bundle. I've been warned against keeping torches next to hammers, but I really want to place one on top. I know they're pricey, and the thought of it not making it is pretty disheartening.

[finnix25]

I'd say your alkalinity is spot on, and magnesium at 1500 is decent, but that calcium level is way off the charts in my opinion. I'm not sure how you managed to get it that high without dosing anything. To be honest, I'd focus on stabilizing your parameters before adding more LPS - it's not impossible, but it's not the wisest move either.

As for the spot you've chosen for the torch, it looks like it'd be getting direct flow from that MP10, which could potentially damage the tissue. Just my two cents. I've always liked the description of euphyllia flow as being like a tree swaying in a tropical breeze - that's the kind of gentle movement you're aiming for.

[felinxo]

Stability is key for euphyllia corals, as it allows them to thrive in their environment. I've found that maintaining calcium levels between 400-450 and carbonate alkalinity at 9-11 dkH is crucial for growth - this can be achieved with a stable magnesium level of around 1300. A balanced blend of supplements, such as Tropic Marin 2 part or Seachem Aquavitro, seems to work well, but dosing will depend on individual tank depletion rates.

My torch corals are the most aggressive feeders, which makes sense given their potent sting. I also supplement with phyto twice a week, but I rely more on photosynthesis to feed my corals. Euphyllia corals are highly adaptable to different light levels, but they seem to do best in moderate lighting.

When it comes to placement, flow is the most important factor. My indo torches can handle more turbulent flow, but most euphyllia corals prefer moderate, indirect flow. I've had great success with powerheads that have a wavemaker function, such as the MP40 or Tunze - these help to create a more natural flow pattern.

It's also worth noting that these corals can be quite aggressive and have a long reach, so it's essential to give them plenty of space. As axonify mentioned, a carbon reactor is a great addition to the tank, as it helps to reduce chemical warfare and improve water clarity.

Overall, this is what has worked for me - I hope it helps others in their euphyllia-keeping journey.

I'm going to take a guess here, but I'd say he's probably using Red Sea Coral Pro to get those calcium levels so high, especially since he's not dosing anything else.

[Flynoir]

I'm actually using Kent, and I think the reason my calcium levels are so high is due to the low drain from the corals at the moment. There are only four corals in the tank, so it's not like they're consuming much. Once I get the tank more packed, I'm expecting the calcium levels to drop. With the current bioload, it's no surprise the levels are staying high. I even tested the mixing bucket water and it was higher, which is why I called the company a few months ago. They told me it was normal, so I just shrugged it off. I'm pretty sure I just need to add more livestock to the tank to balance things out.

[finnix25]

I've looked into Kent salt and it seems that's the recommended mixing amount, but I'm still concerned those numbers could cause issues down the line. High parameters can lead to equipment problems due to calcification.

I think you'll find this article on reef parameters to be a great resource: http://reefkeeping.com/issues/2004-05/rhf/. Another good one is this: http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/11/chemistry.

My main issue with Kent salt is the lack of a substantial guaranteed analysis - http://www.kentmarine.com/products/sea-salt.htm. Compare that to something like Seachem Salinity: http://www.aquavitro.com/products/salinity.html.

Since you're not dosing, I worry about potential shifts in parameters from one batch to the next. Stability is crucial for these corals, and with a smaller tank volume, it can be tougher to maintain steady parameters.

I think your tank will be fine overall, but regular testing is essential to keep parameters steady. I'd also recommend slow acclimation.

One thing I like to do with LPS is place my powerhead so it blows through rocks to disperse direct flow.

[Wildboy]

I'd recommend starting the euphyllia on the sand, then you can gradually move it to that first rock you have on the sand. I've had great success with this approach - I started all four of mine on the sand months ago and only recently moved one to a rock. Using Kessils has worked well for me too, and I've found euphyllia to be one of the easier corals to care for.

[Flynoir]

I've got the ability to dose, but I'm not sure what to aim for. With my levels already being so high, I'm hesitant to start adding more. I've got a batch of BRS 2 part with Mag mixed up and ready to go, but I haven't pulled the trigger yet. My experience with my first tank, a Fluval Spec V, was a bit different - I was using Red Sea salt and dosing Kent 2 part for nanos, but I had a hard time keeping alk and calcium up. That tank was packed with corals by the end, though.

If I put the torch on that first rock, will it be impossible to put anything next to it?

[Flynoir]

I keep a super detailed reef log, testing every three days and the salt bucket whenever I get new salt in. So far, salt batches have been consistent between the two 50 lbs lots I've gotten. Only real swings I've noticed in the tank are pH, it's at 7.8 but goes up to 8.0 then back down throughout the day. Alkalinity's been pretty stable too, it's either 9 or 10, never really in between. Everything else has stayed consistent. I switched to Kent because I can get it locally in case of an emergency, was getting tired of having to order Red Sea and wait for it.