Caring for euphyllia corals
Caring for euphyllia corals
I'm a relatively new LPS keeper and I thought it'd be awesome to start a thread where people can share their experiences with hammer, torch, and frogspawn corals. If you've had success with these corals, I'd love to hear about it - what parameters worked for you, what kind of dosing and feeding did you do, what lighting setup did you use, and where did you place them in your tank? Any other tips or tricks you can share would be super helpful too.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
When it comes down to it, stability is what really matters. Even if some of your parameters are slightly off, maintaining stability will give your corals the best chance to thrive. Having good flow, good light, and practicing good husbandry will make a huge difference.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
Check this out.
I came across a pretty informative article on Advanced Aquarist that I thought was worth sharing, it's a bit older but still relevant - "Corals" from 2012. It covers some key points on coral care, might be helpful for some of you.
I came across a pretty informative article on Advanced Aquarist that I thought was worth sharing, it's a bit older but still relevant - "Corals" from 2012. It covers some key points on coral care, might be helpful for some of you.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
Thanks for the link zenoxa, really informative read.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
Avoid wall variations of hammers and frogspawn.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
Mine seem to thrive in various lighting conditions, but I've found they do well when placed lower to mid-level in the tank. I've also kept the flow relatively low to moderate. Since setting up a carbon reactor, I've noticed a noticeable improvement in their overall health and happiness.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
Stability is key for euphyllia corals, as it allows them to thrive in their environment. I've found that maintaining calcium levels between 400-450 and carbonate alkalinity at 9-11 dkH is crucial for growth - this can be achieved with a stable magnesium level of around 1300. A balanced blend of supplements, such as Tropic Marin 2 part or Seachem Aquavitro, seems to work well, but dosing will depend on individual tank depletion rates.
My torch corals are the most aggressive feeders, which makes sense given their potent sting. I also supplement with phyto twice a week, but I rely more on photosynthesis to feed my corals. Euphyllia corals are highly adaptable to different light levels, but they seem to do best in moderate lighting.
When it comes to placement, flow is the most important factor. My indo torches can handle more turbulent flow, but most euphyllia corals prefer moderate, indirect flow. I've had great success with powerheads that have a wavemaker function, such as the MP40 or Tunze - these help to create a more natural flow pattern.
It's also worth noting that these corals can be quite aggressive and have a long reach, so it's essential to give them plenty of space. As axonify mentioned, a carbon reactor is a great addition to the tank, as it helps to reduce chemical warfare and improve water clarity.
Overall, this is what has worked for me - I hope it helps others in their euphyllia-keeping journey.
My torch corals are the most aggressive feeders, which makes sense given their potent sting. I also supplement with phyto twice a week, but I rely more on photosynthesis to feed my corals. Euphyllia corals are highly adaptable to different light levels, but they seem to do best in moderate lighting.
When it comes to placement, flow is the most important factor. My indo torches can handle more turbulent flow, but most euphyllia corals prefer moderate, indirect flow. I've had great success with powerheads that have a wavemaker function, such as the MP40 or Tunze - these help to create a more natural flow pattern.
It's also worth noting that these corals can be quite aggressive and have a long reach, so it's essential to give them plenty of space. As axonify mentioned, a carbon reactor is a great addition to the tank, as it helps to reduce chemical warfare and improve water clarity.
Overall, this is what has worked for me - I hope it helps others in their euphyllia-keeping journey.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
If I shared a pic of my setup and some key parameters, could you guys help me find the sweet spot for a torch coral? I'm itching to add one, but my tank's on the smaller side and I want it to look pretty full. Knowing they can pack a punch and sting nearby corals has me thinking twice about placement. I've got a spot in mind, but I'm not sure it's the best spot for the coral's sake.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
If you could post a picture of your tank, including your powerheads, returns, and their respective GPH, that'd be super helpful. Also, if you could get the light fixture in the shot and list out its specs, that'd give us a better idea of how to place your torch. With all that info, we should be able to give you some solid advice on where to put it. You might want to consider starting a new thread for this though, just to get more eyes on it and more feedback.
Re: Caring for euphyllia corals
I've got a 40-gallon JBJ all-in-one tank with roughly 480 constant GPH. Two intake pumps in the back, a GFO reactor, and a 9004 Tunze skimmer make up this flow. I also have an MP10 on reef flow, which ramps up and down throughout the day, giving me anywhere from 200-1,500 gallons per hour. The two 200-gallon pumps suck water through the top vents and come out the valves on the front, but I've modified them to stir the water at the surface rather than aiming them anywhere in the tank.
I've got the MP10 on the left side - just one, but I'm open to adding another if you think it's necessary. The tank's only a few months old, and I've got two clowns that are, well, not exactly the best swimmers. I've also got a Kessil 360 WE Tuna Blue, which starts at 15%, ramps up to 75%, holds for three hours, and then ramps back down to 15% over a 10-hour cycle. The top of the rock in the photo is 6 inches from the water line, and the Kessil is about 12 inches off the top of the water line.
As for water parameters, I've got zero ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, and no measurable phosphate. My calcium is a bit high at 560, alkalinity is around 9, and magnesium is at 1500. I'm using my own RO/DI water and not dosing anything yet, given the small load. I've included a photo with my cat to give you an idea of the setup, and I've circled where I want to put the Torch.
I've got the MP10 on the left side - just one, but I'm open to adding another if you think it's necessary. The tank's only a few months old, and I've got two clowns that are, well, not exactly the best swimmers. I've also got a Kessil 360 WE Tuna Blue, which starts at 15%, ramps up to 75%, holds for three hours, and then ramps back down to 15% over a 10-hour cycle. The top of the rock in the photo is 6 inches from the water line, and the Kessil is about 12 inches off the top of the water line.
As for water parameters, I've got zero ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, and no measurable phosphate. My calcium is a bit high at 560, alkalinity is around 9, and magnesium is at 1500. I'm using my own RO/DI water and not dosing anything yet, given the small load. I've included a photo with my cat to give you an idea of the setup, and I've circled where I want to put the Torch.