I appreciate your understanding regarding any spelling or grammar errors I may make.
I've had my betta for about a year now. Recently, I noticed a lump on his side, which has since turned into an open sore. After doing some research, I'm fairly certain it's an ulcer or abscess. I performed a water change a couple of days ago and added a teaspoon of non-iodized salt per gallon, which seemed to give him a bit of energy. Today, I did another small water change and increased the salt by 30% - this seemed to help with his activity level. However, my main concern is that he's stopped eating altogether, and he only moves when I disturb him, spending most of his time at the bottom of the tank.
I'm really worried about his well-being and I'm not sure what to do. Should I consider euthanasia? I don't want him to suffer from starvation or a worsening wound. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
help with a betta fish ulcer
Re: help with a betta fish ulcer
I've seen cases where a sudden lesion like that can be the result of a Mycobacter infection - unfortunately, it's often incurable and untreatable. When handling the tank, be sure to avoid putting your hands in the water with open cuts and wash them thoroughly afterward.
It's a chronic disease that can be carried by the fish for years, and once the sore appears, it can spread rapidly - I'm afraid that's often the final stage.
It's a chronic disease that can be carried by the fish for years, and once the sore appears, it can spread rapidly - I'm afraid that's often the final stage.
Re: help with a betta fish ulcer
I'd love to see some pictures of your betta, that might help us better understand the situation.
It's worth noting that ulcers are typically caused by bacterial infections, so using an antifungal medication might not be the most effective approach.
Considering the sudden appearance of the lesion, I have to agree with graye that it's possible it could be a sign of a more serious issue, but I'd like to see more information before jumping to conclusions.
It's worth noting that ulcers are typically caused by bacterial infections, so using an antifungal medication might not be the most effective approach.
Considering the sudden appearance of the lesion, I have to agree with graye that it's possible it could be a sign of a more serious issue, but I'd like to see more information before jumping to conclusions.
Re: help with a betta fish ulcer
Can't make out much from the pictures - they're not in focus, but if that big brown patch on the rear half of the body is what you're talking about, it's possible it's a physical wound from the fish getting caught under or behind something. In that case, clean water and some salt usually do the trick for minor issues like that.
You should clean the inside of the glass with a clean fish sponge - this gets rid of the biofilm on the glass, which is just a breeding ground for all sorts of bacteria, fungus, and other microscopic life forms that can make your fish sick.
Do a big water change - 75% - and clean the gravel every day for a week. This will help get rid of all the disease organisms in the water and give your fish a cleaner environment to recover in. It's also important to make sure any new water you add is free of chlorine and chloramine.
If you haven't cleaned the filter in the last couple of weeks, now's the time to do it - just be sure to wash the filter media in a bucket of tank water and re-use it. If the filter's less than 6 weeks old, though, leave it alone. Cleaning the filter will help get rid of even more gunk and pathogens, making it easier for any medication you might need to use to actually work on your fish.
Try to increase the surface turbulence and aeration in the tank - this will help get more oxygen into the water, which can only help your fish.
As for salt, you can use rock salt, swimming pool salt, or any non-iodised salt - just use 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If you don't see any improvement after 48 hours, you can double the dose. Just be sure to keep the salt level stable for at least 2 weeks, but no longer than 4 weeks - you don't want to risk kidney damage.
When you're ready to stop using salt, just do a series of water changes - 10% each day for a week, then 20% each day for a week - using only fresh, dechlorinated water. This will help get the salt out of the tank slowly, without stressing your fish.
You should clean the inside of the glass with a clean fish sponge - this gets rid of the biofilm on the glass, which is just a breeding ground for all sorts of bacteria, fungus, and other microscopic life forms that can make your fish sick.
Do a big water change - 75% - and clean the gravel every day for a week. This will help get rid of all the disease organisms in the water and give your fish a cleaner environment to recover in. It's also important to make sure any new water you add is free of chlorine and chloramine.
If you haven't cleaned the filter in the last couple of weeks, now's the time to do it - just be sure to wash the filter media in a bucket of tank water and re-use it. If the filter's less than 6 weeks old, though, leave it alone. Cleaning the filter will help get rid of even more gunk and pathogens, making it easier for any medication you might need to use to actually work on your fish.
Try to increase the surface turbulence and aeration in the tank - this will help get more oxygen into the water, which can only help your fish.
As for salt, you can use rock salt, swimming pool salt, or any non-iodised salt - just use 1 heaped tablespoon per 20 litres of water. If you don't see any improvement after 48 hours, you can double the dose. Just be sure to keep the salt level stable for at least 2 weeks, but no longer than 4 weeks - you don't want to risk kidney damage.
When you're ready to stop using salt, just do a series of water changes - 10% each day for a week, then 20% each day for a week - using only fresh, dechlorinated water. This will help get the salt out of the tank slowly, without stressing your fish.
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