discussing the role of older tanks

[bettaMagenta]

I've come across stories of folks resiliconing vintage tanks, but I'm curious - does anyone here have an actual antique tank in use?

Mine's a standard 55-gallon, and it's got a wild history - it originated in a local stripper bar called the Tiki back in the late 60s, housing piranhas no less. The bar burned down, but my father-in-law salvaged the tank, and it came with the farm when we moved in. It's 1/2 inch thick plate glass with 1/4 inch plastic trim, which is now broken in places. Despite never being resiliconed, it still holds water - and I've got my rainbows thriving in it. The glass is scratched up, but it's a testament to its durability. I figure, given the nature of aquarium-keeping, there must be other old or antique tanks still in use out there. Mine could easily be 70 years old, and it's been through a lot - anyone else have something similar or even older that's still going strong?

[bristlenose]

I've got a couple of oldies - a 3foot tank from the 70s and an angle iron framed one that's been around for who knows how long. Got it in the mid 70s, never used it myself, but it did hold water, just too ugly for my taste.

Going back to the mid sixties, I had a pair of acrylic tanks, bow fronted ones at that, sadly they're long gone now.

As for resiliconing, I've got a couple that need it - the 3ft and a juwel rekord, but I'm past my multi-tank days, so we'll just stick with one for now. To be honest, I'm not too keen on attempting any repairs myself, I'd probably end up making a mess of it and flooding the back room.

[graye]

I once had a unique setup - a metal frame, slate bottomed 2 gallon tank from the 1930s. It's a shame I lost it over the years. The slate bottom was a clever feature, allowing you to place a candle or lamp underneath for warmth at night. I managed to reseal it and get it working again.

I also have a 1960s ten gallon tank that I resiliconed, and it's been running smoothly. However, the thought of resiliconing a large tank is daunting to me.

[muddywave]

I once had a unique setup - a metal frame, slate bottomed 2 gallon tank from the 1930s. It's a shame I lost it over the years. The slate bottom was a clever feature, allowing you to place a candle or lamp underneath for warmth at night. I managed to reseal it and get it working again.

I also have a 1960s ten gallon tank that I resiliconed, and it's been running smoothly. However, the thought of resiliconing a large tank is daunting to me.

That's so cool. I can imagine the hassle of keeping a candle lit under the tank to warm it, not exactly the most stable setup. You must have been really dedicated to your tank.

[bettaMagenta]

I recall owning a silver-framed, possibly stainless, 10-gallon aquarium with a slate bottom back in my early teens - I'm guessing that 1957 model will never appreciate in value like those vintage Chevys.

[graye]

I recall owning a silver-framed, possibly stainless, 10-gallon tank with a slate bottom back in my teenage years - likely around 1957. I highly doubt that old tank would be worth as much as those classic Chevys, though it's probably more reliable.

[Burgermuncher]

I re-did my dad's old tank from the late 60s, had been stored outside in the cold for years. The original plastic top and base were super brittle, and the silicone was iffy. I resealed it in two phases - first, I used 3/4 inch vinyl corner molding, applied with silicone to the outside of the tank, to replace the old plastic molding. Then I removed the internal silicone, cleaned the surfaces, and applied new silicone to the internal edges. It held up for 5 years with the new silicone before I gave it away before our big move.

[BadgersSong]

I've resealed a couple of 55 gallon tanks and built a 12 gallon long from scratch - it's really not as daunting as it seems. Resealing is definitely the easier of the two. To get started, make sure you're working in a well-ventilated area, as silicone glue gives off a strong vinegar smell that can be overwhelming if you're not careful.

First things first, use a razor blade to scrape off the exposed silicone from the inside of the tank. Take your time and be thorough - the new silicone won't adhere to the old stuff. Only cut off the exposed silicone, and avoid inserting the blade between the panes, as the glue in there will hold the tank together while you reseal it.

While you're at it, use the razor blade to remove any mineral buildup with a bit of vinegar. Just be gentle, as it's easy to scratch the glass - let the vinegar do the real work.

Next, clean all the joints thoroughly with rubbing alcohol, rescraping any old glue you might have missed, and clean with alcohol again. Let it dry completely.

Now it's time to mask off all your joints with no-mar tape. I like to make my glue beads around 1/2 inch wide. The masking isn't strictly necessary, but it gives you much nicer looking glue lines.

Apply your silicone glue, being aware that you're committed once you start - you only have around half an hour or so before it starts to skin, and you have to have it all done before then. So make sure you're not going to be interrupted. I find a calk gun a whole lot easier and faster than a squeeze tube.

Run your finger over all the glue joints so the glue sort of squishes down into the joint. If you used masking tape, be sure to remove it before the glue sets up.

Let it dry for at least 48 hours, until you can't smell the vinegar anymore. Fill it up for a test run, scrape off any glue spills with a fresh razor blade, and you're good to go. If you're still unsure, there are plenty of videos on youtube that can walk you through the process.

[coltin]

When resealing a tank, I've learned that it's crucial to work in a well-ventilated area - those silicone fumes are no joke. I've heard they can be pretty harsh on your nasal passages, so be careful. The smell's pretty potent, kind of like vinegar, and I'm pretty sure it's not something you want to be breathing in.

[BadgersSong]

When resealing a tank, I've learned that it's crucial to work in a well-ventilated area - those silicone fumes are no joke. I've heard they can be pretty harsh on your nasal passages, so be careful. The smell's pretty potent, kind of like vinegar, and I'm pretty sure it's not something you want to be breathing in.

Colin, I'm wondering if you've got some documentation to back up that acetone claim. From what I've read, aquarium-safe silicone doesn't contain acetone, and the fumes are more of a nuisance than a serious hazard - mild to moderate nasal irritation at worst. If I'm off base here, I'd love to see some evidence.