adjusting aquarium water chemistry for optimal health

[angelica]

I've had my fair share of experience with Mindwave, and I gotta say, it's not the best solution for replicating the water chemistry of Lake Tanganyika. I recall discussing this with Seachem a few years ago, and they made it clear that while it may raise the GH, it's not reliable for meeting the needs of your fish - it's more geared towards plants.

You've got two viable options to consider. Personally, I'm a fan of using a calcareous substrate, which is specifically designed for rift lake conditions. I've used aragonite sand in the past, and it's been a game-changer. However, you do need to be mindful of water changes, as introducing a large amount of soft water can be problematic for your fish.

The alternative is to use rift lake salts to prepare the water. These aren't your typical sodium chloride salts, but rather mineral salts designed to replicate the water chemistry of the rift lakes.

In terms of pH, you don't need to stress too much about hitting a specific number, as long as it's on the higher side - we're talking high 7's and up. Adding substances like coflake can help raise the pH, but it won't have a significant impact on the GH. I've tried this approach before, and it's not the most effective way to go about it.

That may be the case - but my tap water is actually showing 0 ppm for ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate according to my API test.

[boomer]

I think it's worth considering a balanced approach. For me, using an inert substrate and adding rift lake salts is the way to go. This way, you have complete control over the water parameters and don't have to worry about large water changes causing issues.

I've had my share of frustrations with Seachem products. They seem to want you to buy a whole range of products, which can get expensive. And let's be honest, who wants to do complex calculations every time you do a water change? I learned the hard way when I bought their Equilibrium product for a specific tank. I soon realized I also needed pH Up and pH Down, and working out the ratios was a nightmare. I ended up ditching it all and switching to mineflake salts, which have been a game-changer. I simply add the same amount to every bucket, and my water parameters are always spot on.

I also had issues with the Equilibrium product making my water cloudy, despite their claims that it would dissolve completely. Needless to say, I won't be using their products again anytime soon.

As for pH, I think it's overrated. If you get your GH and KH right, your pH will automatically fall into a suitable range. The actual value doesn't matter as much as people think.

That seems incorrect. The API test uses the nitrate-NO3 scale, and the other scale (nitrate-N) would read a lower number for the same water sample. So if the API tests at 40ppm, the nitrate-N number would be a lower number.

In aquarium tests, we usually follow the nitrate-NO3 scale. If we consider the nitrate-N test, the safe limit would be lower than what we usually assume. So, even if the API test shows 40ppm, the actual nitrate-N level could be lower, and that's what we should be concerned about.

[sSjey]

There are two ways to measure nitrate - as nitrate-NO3 and nitrate-N. The key difference is that nitrate-NO3 measures the whole nitrate, whereas nitrate-N only measures the nitrogen part.

Our test kits and UK water companies use nitrate-NO3. My water quality report, for instance, gives the upper limit for nitrate as "50 mg/l as nitrate" - that's nitrate-NO3. In contrast, American water companies use nitrate-N.

Interestingly, 50 mg/l nitrate-NO3 is equivalent to 11.3 mg/l nitrate-N. This means that the EU and American maximum limits in drinking water are essentially the same.

[angelica]

I think it's worth considering a balanced approach. For me, using an inert substrate and adding rift lake salts is the way to go. This way, you have complete control over the water parameters and don't have to worry about large water changes causing issues.

I've had my share of frustrations with Seachem products. They seem to want you to buy a whole range of products, which can get expensive. And let's be honest, who wants to do complex calculations every time you do a water change? I learned the hard way when I bought their Equilibrium product for a specific tank. I soon realized I also needed pH Up and pH Down, and working out the ratios was a nightmare. I ended up ditching it all and switching to mineflake salts, which have been a game-changer. I simply add the same amount to every bucket, and my water parameters are always spot on.

I also had issues with the Equilibrium product making my water cloudy, despite their claims that it would dissolve completely. Needless to say, I won't be using their products again anytime soon.

As for pH, I think it's overrated. If you get your GH and KH right, your pH will automatically fall into a suitable range. The actual value doesn't matter as much as people think.

Just checked on the DWI site, it's definitely stated as mg/l of NO3.