Getting started with a walstad aquarium

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geniusOfSalt
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Joined: Thu Oct 10, 2024 1:14 am

Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by geniusOfSalt »

Hey scapers, so I'm planning to set up a walstad aquarium and I've done some research. I've got a rough idea of the equipment I'll be using - the UNS 60U tank, Twinstar C Series lights, and a generic HOB filter for filtration. Thinking of adding some shrimp, and maybe some embers or rice fish.

Would love to hear from anyone with experience using this method. What plants and soil do you recommend? Any favorite stocking options?
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matti
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Joined: Sun Oct 09, 2022 8:16 pm

Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by matti »

I tried something similar with my 90L tank. For plants, I'd recommend going with fast growers like limnophilia, myriophyllum, or elodea - they're great for using up excess nutrients. I also used some floating plants and even threw in a few house plants to see how they'd do. For the substrate, I used about an inch of peat-free topsoil, then a 2 to 2.5 inch layer of a gravel and sand mix. Most people would probably say to cap with sand, but I personally like the look of gravel. In hindsight, I think I should've used less soil - the first few weeks, even months, were a real struggle with algae. Definitely do some extra research, watch some videos or read up on it, to get a better understanding. As for stocking, I've got 12 fish and around 14 shrimp, plus some pest snails in my 90L. I try to do 10L water changes almost every week. Good luck with your walstad tank when you get it set up.
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geniusOfSalt
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Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by geniusOfSalt »

Thanks I'll look into those plants. I'm curious, what's your 90L stocked with, fish-wise?
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geniusOfSalt
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Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by geniusOfSalt »

I'm glad I could share some insight. I've been reading about anaerobic buildup and it's pretty fascinating. Apparently, it can cause some serious damage to plant growth if not managed properly. I've been trying to figure out what's going on with my plants and I think it might be a combo of both lighting and anaerobic buildup. Anyway, just something to consider when setting up your walstad.
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BadgersSong
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Joined: Wed Jan 19, 2022 4:47 pm

Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by BadgersSong »

Walstad tanks are truly wonderful if you do them right. I highly recommend reading Diana Walstad's book, Ecology and the Planted Aquarium - it's a game-changer. As a microbiologist, she brings a unique perspective to aquarium-keeping. I've found her method fascinating, although I admit it reads like a college textbook.

I've set up many tanks using her philosophy, and all my current tanks are Walstad setups, including my 55g. The goal is to replicate natural processes as closely as possible, eliminating unnecessary technology. The foundation of the method is built around a few key principles.

First and foremost, it's all about the plants. They provide the filtration, so you need a lot of them. I usually start with around 15 different species, a mix of forms and growth rates. Once the plants are in and thriving, you can add fish and let the plants do their thing.

Stocking levels are also important. I use aquadvisor.com to plan my initial stocking, and I find that keeping it around 80% or less works well. As long as you keep up with water changes, you can go a bit over that.

Water circulation is crucial, especially in larger tanks. In smaller tanks, an airstone will do the trick, but in bigger tanks, I use a canister filter and a powerhead to keep the water moving.

Substrate is also worth considering. I prefer a soil substrate capped with sand, as it releases ammonia and CO2, giving the plants a boost. That being said, I've had success with just sand, no soil.

As for specific plants, I've had great results with crypts, java fern, and fast growers like ambulia and valisneria. I also love using floaters like frogbit and floating fern. The key is to add a ton of biodiversity to hedge your bets.

Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck with your Walstad tank!
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geniusOfSalt
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Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by geniusOfSalt »

I really appreciate all the advice and I'll definitely keep you updated on my progress. I've already added Dkento4e's book to my wishlist on Amazon - it's not too pricey and I'm always up for learning more about aquariums.

I'm actually leaving the country in a week, so it'll probably be a couple of months before I can start setting up my Walstad tank. But I'll just keep doing my research and learning as much as I can, so I'm all set to go when I get back.

Thanks again for all your help - it's been really informative and I feel a lot more confident about my project now.
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TwinTankman
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Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by TwinTankman »

Having started out in gardening on land before moving to aquatic plants, I can tell you that lack of light is likely the reason for plants not having leaves on their lower parts. As plants grow upwards in a tank, they tend to block the light that reaches the bottom, resulting in bare stems near the substrate - what's often referred to as "legginess." Pruning is the way to prevent this, and I've found a good pair of scissors to be essential.

I used to work with Baby Tears, planting individual stems, and a few months later, I'd have a mat of them rising up, with the bottom third bare. I'd pull it all out, discard 95% of it, and replant the individual stems. This was too much work, and I'd have to do it 4 or 5 times a year. I also had to regularly prune stem plants, cutting them in half and replanting the top half to maintain single stems.

Cutting off the top and leaving the bottom allows the plant to produce multiple stems from below the cut, which is a great way to create a bushy plant. However, I prefer single stems over the bushy look.

I never had any interest in trying a Walstad tank, and I actually had a desire to avoid them. As a fish keeper, I use plants where it's beneficial for the fish. At one point, I had 20 tanks, 12 of which were for breeding and growing out Hypancistrus plecos, and none of them had plants. I also had 13 planted tanks, including one with pressurized CO2.

It's true that live plants are one of the best filters you can have, but not everyone can handle them, especially when keeping certain fish species that aren't plant-friendly or require specific setups.
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muddywave
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Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2022 12:51 pm

Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by muddywave »

TwinTankman wrote: Sat Sep 07, 2024 2:41 am Having started out in gardening on land before moving to aquatic plants, I can tell you that lack of light is likely the reason for plants not having leaves on their lower parts. As plants grow upwards in a tank, they tend to block the light that reaches the bottom, resulting in bare stems near the substrate - what's often referred to as "legginess." Pruning is the way to prevent this, and I've found a good pair of scissors to be essential.

I used to work with Baby Tears, planting individual stems, and a few months later, I'd have a mat of them rising up, with the bottom third bare. I'd pull it all out, discard 95% of it, and replant the individual stems. This was too much work, and I'd have to do it 4 or 5 times a year. I also had to regularly prune stem plants, cutting them in half and replanting the top half to maintain single stems.

Cutting off the top and leaving the bottom allows the plant to produce multiple stems from below the cut, which is a great way to create a bushy plant. However, I prefer single stems over the bushy look.

I never had any interest in trying a Walstad tank, and I actually had a desire to avoid them. As a fish keeper, I use plants where it's beneficial for the fish. At one point, I had 20 tanks, 12 of which were for breeding and growing out Hypancistrus plecos, and none of them had plants. I also had 13 planted tanks, including one with pressurized CO2.

It's true that live plants are one of the best filters you can have, but not everyone can handle them, especially when keeping certain fish species that aren't plant-friendly or require specific setups.
I'm seriously impressed by your dedication to those baby tears - I just tried planting a tiny bit and I'm already questioning my sanity. They're gorgeous when they're all established, but honestly, they're such a pain to deal with.
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FishArch
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Joined: Sat Oct 01, 2022 4:55 pm

Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by FishArch »

BadgersSong wrote: Sat Sep 07, 2024 12:30 am Walstad tanks are truly wonderful if you do them right. I highly recommend reading Diana Walstad's book, Ecology and the Planted Aquarium - it's a game-changer. As a microbiologist, she brings a unique perspective to aquarium-keeping. I've found her method fascinating, although I admit it reads like a college textbook.

I've set up many tanks using her philosophy, and all my current tanks are Walstad setups, including my 55g. The goal is to replicate natural processes as closely as possible, eliminating unnecessary technology. The foundation of the method is built around a few key principles.

First and foremost, it's all about the plants. They provide the filtration, so you need a lot of them. I usually start with around 15 different species, a mix of forms and growth rates. Once the plants are in and thriving, you can add fish and let the plants do their thing.

Stocking levels are also important. I use aquadvisor.com to plan my initial stocking, and I find that keeping it around 80% or less works well. As long as you keep up with water changes, you can go a bit over that.

Water circulation is crucial, especially in larger tanks. In smaller tanks, an airstone will do the trick, but in bigger tanks, I use a canister filter and a powerhead to keep the water moving.

Substrate is also worth considering. I prefer a soil substrate capped with sand, as it releases ammonia and CO2, giving the plants a boost. That being said, I've had success with just sand, no soil.

As for specific plants, I've had great results with crypts, java fern, and fast growers like ambulia and valisneria. I also love using floaters like frogbit and floating fern. The key is to add a ton of biodiversity to hedge your bets.

Keep us posted on your progress, and good luck with your Walstad tank!
BadgersSong said:

Walstad tanks are wonderful if you do them right. My first advice would be to get Diana Walstad's book, Ecology and the Planted Aquarium, and read it carefully. She is a microbiologist by training, and if you find the book interesting, you might be nerdy enough to follow her method. You'll also learn a ton about how aquariums work. I find it fascinating, but it reads like a college level textbook. A riveting novel it ain't.

I've done many tanks using her philosophy, and all of my current tanks are Walstad setups, especially the 55g (see link in my signature) The goal is to replicate natural processes as closely as possible, eliminating unneeded technology so natural systems can do the work. The foundations of the method are roughly as follows:

1. It's all about the plants. They provide the filtration. If a Walstad setup has a filter at all, it is mostly to provide water circulation and possibly mechanical filtration. But the plants are doing the heavy lifting, keeping the water clean. In practical terms, that means you need a lot of plants, and you emphasize giving them what they need to be happy. This takes precedence over aesthetics and fish choices. The emphasis is on building a great habitat, which will in turn support the fish.

I usually start out a walstad tank with around 15 different species of plants, a mix of forms and growth rate--rooted, rhizome, stems, and especially floaters, knowing that over time some will come to dominate and others will die out. Once the plants are in and most of them are growing actively, you can go ahead and add fish and the plants will take care of the rest. Search "silent cycle" on the forum for lots of good info on getting started.

2. Fairly light stocking. I use aquadvisor.com to plan most of my initial stocking, and I find that keeping the stocking level around 80% or less works well for a Walstad tank. If you keep up on your water changes you can go a little over that.

3. Water circulation. In a small tank, say 30g or less, an airstone will give you all the water movement your plants need (note that some fish prefer or even require more movement that this, so do your research) In a really large tank like my 150g, I use a canister filter and a powerhead to really keep the water moving and avoid dead spots.

4. Soil substrate capped with sand. This is less important. The soil releases small amounts of ammonia and quite a lot of natural CO2, and provides a huge nutrient boost, all of which gives the plants a great start. It basically saves you the trouble of adding ammonia to cycle. That said, I've done a couple of Walstad tanks with just sand, no soil. It seems to work almost as well and doesn't have the risks of adding soil to your tank. As long as you have a good light, most plants don't seem to care too much.

As far as specific plants, you can use just about anything that isn't too fussy. I've had great results with crypts, java fern, willow and java mosses, fast growers like ambulia and valisneria, and floaters like frogbit and floating fern. Like I said, add a ton of biodiversity to hedge your bets.

OK, that's probably more than enough for now. Keep us posted and good luck.
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graye
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Re: Getting started with a walstad aquarium

Post by graye »

I firmly believe that you can't truly attempt a Walstad tank without first thoroughly reading her book. There's a lot of cherry-picked information floating around online, but this is one of those topics where understanding the underlying principles is crucial for troubleshooting down the line. Those tanks are an entire process, not just a setup.

As someone who prioritizes fish, I must admit that her methods don't particularly resonate with me. However, I have immense respect for her work. She's developed something truly solid and taken the time to share it with the community. The problem arises when we trust some online version of her method, potentially written by someone who hasn't read the book or fully grasped what they're taking on. I've read her book, and I've noticed a lot of effort-saving shortcuts being sold online. These shortcuts often come with risks, and a lot of the online advice is third or fourth-hand, based on a vague idea of what was originally suggested.

If you're seeking advice here (and I hope you do), I'd recommend trusting BadgersSong's input.
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