The Frontosa Cichlid was first scientifically described in 1906 and is native to Africa’s Lake Tanganyika, where it resides at depths of 10-50 meters. Due to their preference for deep waters, they are challenging to catch and are consequently rare and expensive in pet stores.

There are three species in the Cyphotilapia genus, all initially referred to as Frontosa. Different geographical variants of this fish include:

• Tanzanian six-stripe frontosa
• Zaire Blue frontosa
• Burundi six-stripe frontosa
• Zambian blue frontosa

The Frontosa cichlids are semi-aggressive and become more territorial during breeding season. To manage this aggression, a spacious tank with plenty of hiding spots is required. Stress can cause their colors to darken and lose vibrancy, so proper care is crucial.

A unique feature of the Humphead cichlid is the large lump at the front of their head, filled with fat deposits. This characteristic has led to their common nickname, the humphead cichlid.

Size and Appearance

Despite their large size, Humphead cichlids are graceful and display a distinctive humped head that grows bigger with age. The size of their hump is a reliable indicator of the dominant male species. Their bodies have a somewhat compressed appearance, further adding to their distinctiveness.

Frontosa cichlids come in various color forms. Some have a light blue body with several black stripes running vertically along their sides, while others are whitish with black bars on both sides. There are also grey-blue and grey variants of this fish.

The mature male Frontosa cichlid has long dorsal and pectoral fins that end in strings. As the fish ages, its colorings darken, and its fins lengthen. They have protruding mouths and powerful yet compressed teeth.

The Red Frontosa cichlid, from the Taiwan-bred frontosa species, displays reddish-brown stripes due to a lack of organization in their DNA, instead of the usual black vertical lines. They also have white bodies with blue hues.

The Blue Zaire Frontosa is a dominant cichlid species. Its beautiful deep blue and purple patterns can light up any tank. They have a blue or white base color offset by six to seven black bands. Their dorsal fins may sometimes have gold accents.

The Burundi Frontosa has a pale blue body with five black stripes running vertically down its back. The sixth line runs from its forehead, along with its eye, and down to the opercle insertion. The Burundi Frontosa is the most commonly found hump head species in aquariums today.

On average, the Frontosa cichlid has a lifespan of around 20 years, although some species live for only 15 years. To ensure a long life for this fish, it is recommended to house them in a large enough tank, ideally a 200-gallon tank, which can comfortably accommodate about a dozen of these fish.

The sex of Frontosa cichlids can be determined by examining their sex organ located between their anal fin and anus. The female sex organ is round, while the male’s is more triangular. Females also tend to be plumper, especially when carrying eggs, and males typically have more prominent humps on their heads.

Frontosa cichlids grow quickly and can reach up to 15 inches in length. However, female cichlids are usually smaller, averaging only 8 to 10 inches. To ensure your fish reach their maximum length, provide them with the right tank size, substrate, diet, and care. The aquarium decorations also play a crucial role in their growth.

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Frontosa cichlids are relatively easy to care for once you understand their needs. Proper care involves creating an environment similar to their natural habitat, providing a suitable diet, and selecting appropriate tank mates.

Frontosas, like all Rift lake cichlids, are not particularly demanding except when it comes to water chemistry. Their natural habitat, Lake Tanganyika, is highly alkaline due to its tropical location and high concentration of dissolved salts and minerals. The lake’s temperature, pH, and hardness remain stable throughout the year. It is important to replicate these water conditions in your aquarium to minimize shock as your fish acclimatize.

Frontosa Cichlids are slow and clumsy swimmers, preferring not to expend much energy. They are also ambush predators, lying in wait for smaller fish to swim past them. Despite their clumsiness, they are known for rearranging their tanks, knocking over objects, uprooting plants, and moving the substrate around. Regardless of their number, Frontosa cichlids can and will disrupt your carefully arranged aquarium in a matter of minutes.

African Cichlids are known for their aquascaping abilities, often digging up plants and overturning ornaments. It is recommended to use plants with solid rhizomes like Anubias and Java ferns to prevent them from being uprooted. The tank should also be filled with large caves and overhangs for the Frontosa to retreat to when needed, as they are generally shy and these hiding spots make them feel more secure.

The bottom of the tank can be layered with sand or fine gravel. To maintain a constant pH in the tank, pH augmenting substrates like aragonite sand and crushed coral are recommended. The pure white color of the aragonite also provides a striking contrast to the dark colors of mature Frontosas.

Frontosa cichlids prefer subdued lighting, as it encourages them to stay in the open. Bright lights can cause stress in these fish since they naturally prefer deep waters with low light levels. Therefore, it is recommended to keep the lighting in your tank minimal.

It is recommended to keep at least six to eight Frontosa cichlids in your tank, with only one male to create a harem-like environment. You can keep fewer than six of these fish, but trios and duos are not recommended.

The number of Frontosa cichlid you keep in your tank influences their interaction with each other. Their interaction with humans can vary. Some aquarists report their Frontosa cichlids are friendly and appear happy to see their keepers, even swimming to greet them. Others report that their Frontosa are shy and hide when their keepers approach. It seems that, like humans, each humphead cichlid has a unique personality.

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A young Frontosa Cichlid

Tank Mates

Although Frontosas are not overly aggressive, they are predators and will eat any fish small enough to fit in their mouths. Therefore, when selecting tank mates, it is important to choose fish species of similar size and temperament. Frontosas are mild-tempered cichlids, so overly aggressive fish should be avoided. Fish species larger than them are also not suitable tank mates. Some suitable tank mates include:

• Medium to large Rift Lake cichlid
• Large rainbowfish
• Cuckoo catfish
• Central American Cichlid

When choosing American cichlids, it is important to avoid particularly aggressive species such as the Jaguar cichlid and instead opt for species like the Jack Dempseys.

While it is important to avoid overly aggressive or large fish, it is also not recommended to choose timid small fish as tank mates for your Frontosa cichlid. The chosen tank mates should also be able to survive the hard, alkaline conditions that Frontosas thrive in.

Although Livebearers can survive the water conditions in a Frontosa Cichlids tank, they are generally too small and will likely become a meal for your cichlid. Here are some fish species that are not suitable tank mates for Frontosa cichlids:

• Large South American Cichlids like Oscars and Jaguar
• Silver dollars
• Gouramis
• Livebearers
• Barbs
• Tetras

Frontosa Cichlids are semi-aggressive and typically non-territorial, although they can defend their territories when threatened, particularly during their breeding season. Unlike other cave-dwelling African cichlid species, these cichlids prefer to stay in large colonies and dwell at the bottom of the tank.

Their size contributes to their aggressiveness. However, Frontosa cichlids are considered one of the most peaceful African cichlid species because they are tolerant of other fish species. This tolerance is likely due to the fact that their natural habitat, Lake Tanganyika, is home to over 250 different fish species.

As top predators in the wild, Frontosa cichlids require a diet rich in protein. Essential protein sources include live and dead fish, chopped shellfish, worms, shrimps, bloodworms, micro worms, and other animal-based foods. Although small fish form a significant part of their diet, it is not recommended to feed them pet store feeder fish unless they are confirmed to be disease-free. There are also many commercial foods available that cater to carnivores. It may be necessary to use feeding tongs to ensure your Frontosas receive their fair share of nutrients, as they are slow feeders and tend not to compete with other fish for food.

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Breeding

It can be challenging to differentiate between the sexes of the Frontosa cichlid as they are almost identical until they reach sexual maturity. It takes three years for them to reach sexual maturity, at which point the males develop a noticeable nuchal hump and extended fins.

Frontosas are selective when it comes to mating. Therefore, it is recommended to raise a group of them together so they can pair up naturally as they grow. You can start with 10 fish and remove the males as they mature until you are left with one or two male frontosas. This helps to create a natural harem like the one they prefer in the wild.

Once a proper harem has been established, it’s time to set the stage for Frontosa breeding. Success can be ensured by conditioning them. Fortunately, massive water changes are not necessary as Lake Tanganyika is a stable environment. Feed them high-quality, protein-rich food to fuel their gamete production. Limit the amount of prepared and commercial food you give them during the conditioning stage. Ensure that your water is clean and that the parameters are within range.

Once they are successfully conditioned, the females begin to swell due to the eggs in their abdomen. She lays her eggs and then takes them into her mouth to protect them from predators until they hatch. Frontosas are livebrooders, meaning their eggs are incubated in their mouth. While the female fish is incubating the eggs, she does not eat, and the male defends their territory from predators. Once the eggs hatch, the female releases them, and they form a loose cloud around her head while the male continues to guard them. If a threat is detected, the female gathers the fry and takes them back into her mouth.

About 50 days after hatching, they become independent and begin to explore their tank. At this point, they can be moved to a separate aquarium and cared for until they can fend off predators.

Frontosa cichlid fry are relatively large, measuring about half an inch at hatching. They can eat any food small enough to fit into their mouth. Brine shrimp, powdered flakes, micro worms, mosquito larvae, and nauplii are all good choices. There is no need to provide the fry with infusoria.

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