Who Gives A Fish Forums

You're welcome. I think it's great that you're considering your fish's feeding schedule. When I was working, I used to feed my fish when I got home in the evening, around 6 pm. That way, they had a couple of hours of light after feeding and adjusted really well. It's best to feed them when the tank light has been on for at least half an hour, so they're fully awake and not stressed. I'd also recommend being around during feeding time, not every day, but occasionally, just to observe them and make sure everything's okay.

My tank light is off until a few hours after noon. It then turns on and stays on until just before bedtime, all thanks to the timer. The room is quite dim in the morning, but around noon, the ambient light starts to pick up and the fish start to stir. Interestingly, they seem to take this whole routine in stride and don't appear to have any issues with it.

boomer wrote: ↑Sat Jan 08, 2022 12:17 am It's better to have the tank light period consistent, rather than breaking it up. Since you're not home from 5:30 am to 6 pm, it makes sense to have the light on when you're there to enjoy the aquarium. You can set the timer to turn the light on during the day, say 12 noon or 1:00 pm, and off at 8 pm or 9 pm, depending on your schedule.

There are a couple of things to consider. Firstly, the room shouldn't be in darkness when the tank lighting comes on or goes off. You want ambient room light, whether from a window during the day or artificial lighting at night, for at least half an hour before the tank lighting comes on and after it goes off. This helps avoid shocking the fish with sudden light/darkness, which isn't natural. You're aiming to create a sort of dawn and dusk, like in nature.

Secondly, there needs to be a period of continuous complete darkness during each 24 hours. This is when the fish's biological processes slow down, and they relax. It's similar to our sleep. So, in the example above, this would be from 9 or 10 pm, after the tank lighting and all ambient room lighting is off, until dawn when daylight may enter via a window.

The reason for this has to do with the circadian rhythm, a biological clock that runs on a 24-hour period. Fish, like all animals, have this rhythm, which is governed by light. Not only do their eyes perceive light, but their cells do too. This is why we experience jet lag, and there are problems when daylight savings time occurs. In fish, this light/dark response is even greater; every cell on their body reacts to light and dark.

Once you establish a regular tank lighting schedule, you'll notice that the fish will come to expect the light coming on and going off. That's because of their circadian rhythm. Experiments with blind fish have proven that this response doesn't depend on the fish's eyesight, but because every cell is affected by light and dark.

This is why the tank lighting period should always be continuous and roughly the same every day. It makes the fish's life simpler, as they can save energy for more important things, and there's less stress when everything occurs the same day after day. Some high-tech planted tank aquarists might suggest the siesta approach, but biologically, this is harmful to the fish. Plants can adjust to varying periods, but fish can't, at least if we want them to be in the best health.

If algae is a problem, reducing the tank lighting period is the best way to deal with it. Sometimes, an excess of fertilizers can cause algae too. But it's better to sort out the light/nutrient balance rather than jumping into something that will be stressful to the fish.

Thanks for the advice, I've been feeding my fish first thing in the morning when I turn the lights on and they're always eager for food. I'll try holding off for a bit now, I didn't realize they needed time to adjust to the light. I also turn my lights off before bed when it's already dark, so I guess I've been shocking them without realizing it.

I've found my fish aren't as keen on food towards the end of the day, so I tend to feed them just before I head to work when they're already up and about from the room lights, but before the main tank lights kick in. I had an issue with algae, but sorting the lighting schedule out really helped - and it was a super cheap fix, just a £3 timer.

Hi, apologies for interrupting the conversation, but I'm planning a planted tank setup and I'm seeking advice on the lighting. I've got an Arcadia T5 electronic ballast 54w, and I'm torn between the Arcadia Classica range's Tropical Pro and Plant Pro High Output. Should I go for one of each or two of the same? My tank gets plenty of natural daylight during the day, and I've got a timer for when it gets dark. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

You might want to consider starting a new thread for this, but since I'm here, I'll give you my two cents. You're looking at some pretty bright lighting with that setup. Are you planning on running a high-tech planted tank with CO2 and daily fertilizers?

I'm going for a low-tech setup, no CO2 or anything like that, so getting the lighting right is pretty important. Two tubes were mentioned initially, so I'm guessing you're thinking two 54w tubes - this is T5 HO, after all. What's the tank size, in terms of volume and dimensions, and how long are the tubes? Also, can I run just one of the tubes without the other, or is it both or none?

boomer wrote: ↑Sat Jan 08, 2022 12:17 am It's better to have the tank light period consistent, rather than breaking it up. Since you're not home from 5:30 am to 6 pm, it makes sense to have the light on when you're there to enjoy the aquarium. You can set the timer to turn the light on during the day, say 12 noon or 1:00 pm, and off at 8 pm or 9 pm, depending on your schedule.

There are a couple of things to consider. Firstly, the room shouldn't be in darkness when the tank lighting comes on or goes off. You want ambient room light, whether from a window during the day or artificial lighting at night, for at least half an hour before the tank lighting comes on and after it goes off. This helps avoid shocking the fish with sudden light/darkness, which isn't natural. You're aiming to create a sort of dawn and dusk, like in nature.

Secondly, there needs to be a period of continuous complete darkness during each 24 hours. This is when the fish's biological processes slow down, and they relax. It's similar to our sleep. So, in the example above, this would be from 9 or 10 pm, after the tank lighting and all ambient room lighting is off, until dawn when daylight may enter via a window.

The reason for this has to do with the circadian rhythm, a biological clock that runs on a 24-hour period. Fish, like all animals, have this rhythm, which is governed by light. Not only do their eyes perceive light, but their cells do too. This is why we experience jet lag, and there are problems when daylight savings time occurs. In fish, this light/dark response is even greater; every cell on their body reacts to light and dark.

Once you establish a regular tank lighting schedule, you'll notice that the fish will come to expect the light coming on and going off. That's because of their circadian rhythm. Experiments with blind fish have proven that this response doesn't depend on the fish's eyesight, but because every cell is affected by light and dark.

This is why the tank lighting period should always be continuous and roughly the same every day. It makes the fish's life simpler, as they can save energy for more important things, and there's less stress when everything occurs the same day after day. Some high-tech planted tank aquarists might suggest the siesta approach, but biologically, this is harmful to the fish. Plants can adjust to varying periods, but fish can't, at least if we want them to be in the best health.

If algae is a problem, reducing the tank lighting period is the best way to deal with it. Sometimes, an excess of fertilizers can cause algae too. But it's better to sort out the light/nutrient balance rather than jumping into something that will be stressful to the fish.

OK. This will work low-tech, if you're careful. You'll need a thick cover of floating plants to help, and then you'll have to work out the duration each 24 hour period. This is a bit trial and error, as each aquarium can be very different. I have three largish tanks with dual T8 tubes (48-inch) and I have different durations just to keep algae at bay. You'll still have quite bright light, but I think you can manage it.

As for the tubes themselves, I took a look at the Arcadia website and I would suggest one tube should definitely be the Freshwater Lamp. This one has the most natural colour rendition, it's close to mid-day sun. I use something comparable on my tanks and the plants grow very well and the colours of fish and plants are true.

For the second lamp, you have a choice. I would think the Original Tropical would be better. The spectrum of the Original Tropical seems better. Aquatic plants need red and blue to drive photosynthesis, and of these, red is the more important. Both the latter tubes say they are highest in red and blue, but there's more to it than this. Studies have shown plants respond best when green is added to the mix. The plant colour of course is due to reflected light, so green plants reflect green light, red reflect red, etc, and thus they need more of these colours. I'm suggesting the OT to be better than the Plant Pro because of the red in the spectrum graph. I would still want to see each with the other, over the tank.

boomer wrote: ↑Sat Jan 08, 2022 12:17 am It's better to have the tank light period consistent, rather than breaking it up. Since you're not home from 5:30 am to 6 pm, it makes sense to have the light on when you're there to enjoy the aquarium. You can set the timer to turn the light on during the day, say 12 noon or 1:00 pm, and off at 8 pm or 9 pm, depending on your schedule.

There are a couple of things to consider. Firstly, the room shouldn't be in darkness when the tank lighting comes on or goes off. You want ambient room light, whether from a window during the day or artificial lighting at night, for at least half an hour before the tank lighting comes on and after it goes off. This helps avoid shocking the fish with sudden light/darkness, which isn't natural. You're aiming to create a sort of dawn and dusk, like in nature.

Secondly, there needs to be a period of continuous complete darkness during each 24 hours. This is when the fish's biological processes slow down, and they relax. It's similar to our sleep. So, in the example above, this would be from 9 or 10 pm, after the tank lighting and all ambient room lighting is off, until dawn when daylight may enter via a window.

The reason for this has to do with the circadian rhythm, a biological clock that runs on a 24-hour period. Fish, like all animals, have this rhythm, which is governed by light. Not only do their eyes perceive light, but their cells do too. This is why we experience jet lag, and there are problems when daylight savings time occurs. In fish, this light/dark response is even greater; every cell on their body reacts to light and dark.

Once you establish a regular tank lighting schedule, you'll notice that the fish will come to expect the light coming on and going off. That's because of their circadian rhythm. Experiments with blind fish have proven that this response doesn't depend on the fish's eyesight, but because every cell is affected by light and dark.

This is why the tank lighting period should always be continuous and roughly the same every day. It makes the fish's life simpler, as they can save energy for more important things, and there's less stress when everything occurs the same day after day. Some high-tech planted tank aquarists might suggest the siesta approach, but biologically, this is harmful to the fish. Plants can adjust to varying periods, but fish can't, at least if we want them to be in the best health.

If algae is a problem, reducing the tank lighting period is the best way to deal with it. Sometimes, an excess of fertilizers can cause algae too. But it's better to sort out the light/nutrient balance rather than jumping into something that will be stressful to the fish.

Thanks for the advice, I'll give those tubes a go and see how it all works out. I'll keep you updated on my progress.

I was thinking of using a combination of the Freshwater Lamp and the Original Tropical, as you suggested. I've taken a look at the Arcadia website and they seem like good options. The Freshwater Lamp has a natural colour rendition, similar to mid-day sun, which I think would be great for my plants.

I'll have to try out the Original Tropical as well, as you mentioned it might be a better option than the Plant Pro. I've read that aquatic plants need red and blue light to drive photosynthesis, and the Original Tropical seems to have a good balance of these colours. Plus, it's supposed to render true colours, which would be great for my fish and plants.

I'll let you know how it all goes, and if I have any more questions, I'll be sure to ask. Thanks again for your help.

It would be better for the plants and the fish if you have the period of tank light consistent, not broken into two periods. As you are not home from 5:30 am to 6 pm, it makes sense to have the tank light on when you are there to enjoy the aquarium. You can set the timer to turn the light on during the day, say 12 noon or 1:00 pm, and off at say 8 pm or 9 pm, depending upon your schedule.

There are two things to keep in mind. The room must not be in darkness when the tank lighting comes on or goes off, so you want ambient room light whether from a window during the day or artificial lighting at night. This ambient lighting needs to be present for at least half an hour before the tank lighting comes on and at least half an hour after it goes off. This avoids shocking the fish with sudden light/darkness which is not natural. You are aiming to provide a sort of dawn and dusk as in nature.

Second, there must be a period of continuous complete darkness during each 24 hours. This is the period during which the fish's biological processes slow, and the fish relaxes. It is the same as our sleep. So in the example above, this would be from 9 or 10 pm (after the tank lighting and all ambient room lighting is off and the room is in total darkness) until dawn when daylight may enter via a window.

Fish, like all animals, have what is called the circadian rhythm, a sort of biological clock that runs on a 24-hour period. Plants have a very similar reactive response to light. The circadian rhythm is governed by light. Not only do the eyes perceive light, but cells do as well; this is why we experience jet lag, and there are problems when daylight savings time occurs. In fish this light/dark is even greater; every cell on their body reacts to light and dark.

Once you are regular with the tank lighting, you will quickly observe that the fish will come to "expect" the light coming on and going off. That is because of the circadian rhythm. Experiments with blind fish have proven that this response does not depend upon the fish's eyesight, but because every cell is affected by light and dark.

This is why the period of "daylight" when the tank lighting is on should always be continuous, and roughly the same every day. It makes the fish's life much simpler, as they can save energy for more important things, as there is less stress when everything occurs the same day after day. Some high-tech planted tank aquarists will suggest the siesta approach, of having the tank lighting on for say 4 hours, off for 3-4, then on for another 4 hours. But biologically this is harmful to the fish.

The plants will be affected too, but plants can adjust to varying periods whereas fish cannot, at least if we want them to be in the best health. If algae is a problem, reducing the "daylight" period is the best way to deal with this, though sometimes an excess of fertilizers can cause algae too. But sort out the light/nutrient balance rather than jumping into something that will be stressful to the fish.